ADVANCE ANNOUNCEMENT!

Monday Oct 5,  2009

NEXT MEDITERRANEAN CRUISE:

SEPT 2011

Yep, we’re had so much fun this time around we’re gonna do it again – in September 2011 (just two years from now)!

Full details, costs and itinerary won’t be known for some months. But if the thought of a Med Cruise pushes your buttons … if it’s one adventure you’ve always dreamed of … and if reading this blog has whet your appetite … GET IN EARLY!

Register your interest NOW with our booking agent, Roger Glynan (Lion World Travel). Phone him toll-free on 0800 277 477 … or email roger.glynan@lionworld.co.nz.

Go on! You won’t regret it!

GALLIPOLI & TROY

Friday Oct 2, 2009

HELP!

Does anyone know what happened to the final few days of our Mad Midlife adventure? They’ve gone by in such a rush I’m not sure whether I’m Arthur or Martha!

The rush started on Thursday morning when we disembarked and said our sad farewells to the mv Discovery and its crew. Loading Kiwi bodies and bags onto a coach, we drove south out of Istanbul along the Sea of Marmara to the Gallipoli Peninsula where we visited the haunting World War 1 sites that have special significance for Kiwis and Aussies: Anzac Cove, Lone Pine, 57th Regiment and Chanuk Bair.

It was here in 1915 that Allied Forces battled the Turks for control of this strategic location – an ambitious eight-month campaign that ultimately failed, at enormous cost to both sides. Among the dead were 2721 New Zealand soldiers – roughly one quarter of the NZers who fought here. And the gravestones of fallen Allies and fallen Turks seem to stretch forever.

The gracious words of Ataturk, Turkey’s wartime leader (and the creator of the Turkish democracy), are especially poignant: 

“Those heroes who shed their blood and lost their lives … you are now living in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore, rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side in this country of ours … You the mothers who sent their sons from faraway countries: wipe away your tears. Your sons are now living in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well.”

It proved to be a very moving few hours for us Kiwis as we followed the unforgettable Anzac story across this rugged windswept stretch of coastline (before laying some Anzac poppies on the NZ memorial). And we were in a sober frame of mind when we crossed the Dardenelles by vehicular ferry to our hotel for the night in Canakkale (pronounced ‘Char-nar-karly’).

Then, this morning after breakfast, we hit the road again – heading for what’s left of ancient Troy, legendary city of Helen, the famous Wooden Horse, and the sneak attack by Greek soldiers on the Trojans (around 1200BC). Generations of historians assumed that this place (referred to by Homer) was purely fiction – but then, in the 19th century, the remains were found of a once-great centre of civilisation.

We wandered the site and relived this fascinating story before motoring back to our hotel in Istanbul. And after dinner (our last in Turkey) we took to the city streets to grab some final memories (and photos) of the beautifully lit-up Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia.

Sadly, all good things come to an end. And Midlife Madness on the Mediterranean is pretty much over for 2009. This combination of pampering-at-sea and discovery-on-shore has (once again) been hugely successful! We’ve seen so much, done so much, learned so much, gained so much and laughed so much that we don’t know where to put it all! And in the process we’ve made some first-class friends …

But the time has come for our Kiwi group to disband and head off in different directions. In the morning most of our Kiwi travellers will transfer to Ataturk Airport – and, by the time you good folk at home get to read this, we’ll be winging our way back to New Zealand.

We’ve had a wonderful, once-in-a-lifetime experience – we’ve got stories and memories to prove it. And we can’t wait to bore you to death with the ZILLIONS of photos we’ve each taken!

I bet YOU can’t wait to see them – right? Yeah, right!

Yours over-and-out – JOHN

ISTANBUL … A TASTE OF TURKEY

Wednesday Sept 30, 2009

Yesterday was another welcome break. I mean, let’s be real: we’d worked for it, we’d earned it, and finally we got it – another full day onboard to rest up and live it up aboard our floating hotel, while we sailed north through the islands of Greece and Turkey into the famous Dardanelles Straight.

And in the afternoon? Something very special for the Kiwis and Aussies on board: an Anzac Service out on the back deck, as we sailed slowly (and close-up) past the WW1 beaches of the Gallipoli Peninsula. A big crowd gathered to enjoy an extremely moving memorial which included readings, prayers, hymns, the playing of the Last Post and the dropping overboard of a wreath of red poppies.

Then, this morning, we woke to another day and another ancient capital: Istanbul.

This fabulous Turkish city (formerly Byzantium, then Constantinople) featured large in several of the most glorious empires of all time – from Alexander the Great and the Roman Emperors Constantine and Justinian, through to the Ottomans, the Crusaders, the Selcuks and more.

Modern Istanbul, spanning two continents, is crammed with sparkling mosques, amazing mosaics, sprawling suburbs, crowded bazaars piled high with carpets and gleaming brass and copper and gold … plus dazzling sultans’ palaces right out of the pages of ‘Tales of Arabian Nights’.

We headed out after breakfast to explore the incredible Hagia Sophia, which used to be a cathedral, then a mosque, and is now a museum … the magnificent Blue Mosque with its towering dome and beautiful tiles … the Hippodrome, where Roman chariot races were once held in front of 100,000 screaming fans … and the 6th century Byzantine Cistern with its Yerebatan Sarayi (a vast water reservoir under the streets of Istanbul).

Then, following a tasty Turkish lunch, as the muezzin called the faithful to prayer from countless minarets, we walked the streets of Istanbul to the famous Grand Bazaar: an immense covered marketplace with 4000 shops, cafes and tea houses (dating back to when Istanbul was Constantinople). Handmade carpets, leather, ceramics, tiles, gold, copperware – it’s all here by the tonne. And the shopaholics in our group didn’t need much encouraging.

We then followed that up with a wander through the colourful, aromatic Egyptian Spice Bazaar – where many of our Kiwis splurged on mouth-watering Turkish Delight.

Ahh, yes – all part of the fun!

TOMORROW & THE DAY AFTER: We leave the ship and head off on our final bonus excursion to Gallipoli, Anzac Cove and ancient Troy …

Yours bloggedly – JOHN

EPHESUS OF OLD …

Monday Sept 28, 2009

Our Kiwi adventurers have already seen enough old stuff to last a lifetime. But there was no let-up today, because on offer was one of the world’s finest archaeological sites: the famous city of Ephesus!

Heading inland from Kusadasi (the attractive resort-city on the Turkish coast where our ship had moored), we drove first to a tree-covered hillside where we visited a tiny chapel built on the remains of what’s thought to be the house where Mary, mother of Jesus, spent her final years. (Ask us to tell you the fascinating story.) This lovely peaceful site, forgotten for hundreds of years, is now a place of pilgrimage for Christians from all around the world.

But Ephesus was calling, so it was back on the coach for our mad-midlifers …

During its prosperous Golden Years, before its ancient harbour finally silted up (Ephesus is now 8kms from the sea), it boasted a population of 250,000, and was a major Greek and Roman port – with noble’s houses, marble streets, shops, temples, water-on-tap, fountains, a library, a theatre and (what d’ya know?) even a brothel!

Ephesus was occupied at various times by various conquerors. The superbly restored site (80% of which has yet to be dug out of the dirt) records a long, colourful and often biblical history. And (like Pompeii earlier in our tour) walking through the exposed remains was like stepping back in time.

We wandered down the Arcadian Way … checked out the public baths … sat on the public loos … viewed the stunningly reconstructed façade of the Library of Celsus … photographed the very amphitheatre where St Paul once provoked a riot … and then gathered down on the makeshift stage and sang Pokarekare Ana (to the applause of hundreds of other tourists in the theatre)!

Leaving the ruins, we drove to the nearby town of Selcuk for a Turkish lunch (in a converted train station) before heading to what’s left of the Basilica of St John (where tradition says the disciple is buried) … and a nearby archaeological museum, where we eyeballed some of the stunning ‘finds’ unearthed in Ephesus – including many many-breasted statues of the fertility mother goddess, Artemis (aka Diana). 

Amazingly, the 34 tired’n’dusty Kiwis who arrived back at the ship managed to recover and scrub-up by time our Mad Midlife cocktail party kicked off in the Hideaway Bar … and lots more fun and nonsense was enjoyed by all.

PEOPLE NEWS: Two late entries were honoured last night with Mad Midlife Awards:

* The ‘Technically Challenged’ Award went to Stuart – who was caught sitting stride the motor-scooter he and Julie had rented in Mykonos, trying to start the machine with his cabin key!

* The ‘Hop-Step-&-Jump’ Award went to Allison – who managed somehow to get stuck in the entry-gate at Ephesus, and ended up straddling the rotating turnstile bar. (Ouch!)

TOMORROW: We’re invading Istanbul (Turkey), in search of soaring domes, pencil-thin minarets, opulent palaces and grand bazaars …

Yours bloggedly – JOHN

P.S. If you want to leave a message for someone in our group, just click on ‘COMMENTS’ (or ‘NO COMMENTS’) under the title for the day’s blog, and type away! Make sure you say who it’s for and who it’s from – and keep it brief. And don’t worry: we’ll make sure they get these messages. Also, if you want a better look at our route map and some of the photos here, just click on them and they’ll enlarge – magic!

PICTURE-PERFECT MYKONOS

Sunday Sept 27, 2009

We Kiwis had ourselves another oh-so-special day today – on a miniature rocky resort that’s probably the best-known and most-fashionable of all the Greek Isles. Mykonos (you may have seen it in the movie Shirley Valentine) is a blizzard of piled-up whitewashed houses (sporting blue doors, windows and balconies) … narrow cobblestoned lanes that wind up and down and all around (deliberately laid out to confuse attacking pirates) … quiet squares laced with pink bouganvillea (where you’re tempted to think no tourist has ever been before) … the occasional stumpy windmill … and tiny shops that beg you to part with whatever spending money you’ve still got left …

And when you’re done with shopping and exploring? There are outdoor cafés every few metres, inviting you to kick back and let the world go on without you!

According to ancient Greek mythology, it was here on Mykonos that Hercules slew some giants – and the large rocks scattered around the island are (no kidding) their petrified corpses. However, corpses didn’t bother us today – and the gusty, knock-you-over Mykonos wind couldn’t stop our mad midlifers: some of whom hired motor-scooters and puttered off on their own little adventure.  

Others of us shopped until we dropped … aimed our cameras at everything we could (included the colourful old fishing boats tugging at their anchor ropes) … and downed small cups of strong Greek coffee and some thick Greek yoghurt on a sheltered part of the shoreline known as Little Venice.

TOMORROW: We’re inspecting the stunning archaeological remains of Greco-Roman Ephesus in Turkey. See you there …

Yours bloggedly – JOHN

P.S. If you want to leave a message for someone in our group, just click on ‘COMMENTS’ (or ‘NO COMMENTS’) under the title for the day’s blog, and type away! Make sure you say who it’s for and who it’s from – and keep it brief. And don’t worry: we’ll make sure they get these messages. Also, if you want a better look at our route map and some of the photos here, just click on them and they’ll enlarge –  magic!